Is having balanced water crucial to your pool?

The primary components of a balanced pool are total alkalinity, pH and calcium hardness.

An incorrect total alkalinity will cause the pH to be either too high or too low. If pH and calcium are low, the pool is too acidic or corrosive and this will lead to deterioration of the pool's finish and equipment. Also, the pool's chlorine will be used too quickly. When pH and calcium hardness are too high, scale will form and chlorine becomes ineffective.

There must also be something to keep the water clear and free from bacteria. Chlorine will accomplish this. An ideal chlorine level is 1-3 PPM in swimming pools and 2-6 PPM in SPAs.

One last component to maintaining a balanced pool is stabilizer. Stabilizer protects chlorine from the sun, allowing the chlorine to stay in the water longer, therefore able to fight against algae and bacteria.

Ideal Alkalinity = 80-130 PPM
Low alkalinity requires bicarbonate; High alkalinity requires Muriatic Acid
Ideal pH = 7.4
Low pH 6.8, add pH plus; High pH 8.0, add acid or pH minus
Ideal Chlorine = 1-3 PPM
Calcium hardness = 200-400 PPM

Water chemistry varies by location so something that works for a friend may not help your pool. If in doubt, don’t hesitate to contact a pool professional from Pool People USA if you are uncertain about chemical dosages.

How do I calculate pool volume?

It is important to know your pool's capacity to calculate the proper quantity of chemicals to maintain water that is clear and sanitized. The chart below guides you in determining capacity for the shape and size of your pool.

What type of chlorine is best for my pool?

Chlorine is a disinfectant and the most popular sanitizer used in pool water. Sanitizers are used to keep water clear of bacteria and inhibit or control the growth of viruses, algae and organic contaminants. The two most common sanitizers are chlorine and bromine.

Chlorine levels are determined with a test kit and measured in parts per million (PPM). The ideal chlorine residual (chlorine residual refers to the chlorine remaining after all reactions and dissipations have occurred) in pool water should be between 1.0 and 1.5 PPM.

Bromine is an alternative sanitizer to chlorine. Bromine levels are measured using a test kit and the ideal Bromine residual is 3.0 PPM. Bromine is not as harsh on skin, eyes and swim wear as chlorine and does not produce a chlorine odor. Bromine is slower dissolving and is more effective than chlorine in hot water.

What is stabilizer?

This is a chemical that prevents the ultra-violet rays of the sun from prematurely dissipating the chlorine level. Stabilizer reduces sanitizer consumption up to 50% and should be added to the pool if needed. It is important to test your stabilizer level because it stays in your water indefinitely. If stabilizer was added in the past, you generally just add it based on the results of your test. During winter months stabilizer levels should be maintained between 30-50 PPM, during the summer months it should be maintained between 60-80 PPM. Too much stabilizer can cause cloudy water.

Alternative Sanitizers:

An Alternative Sanitizer is generally regarded as anything used to sanitize the pool water in lieu of the more traditional methods of chlorine and bromine. To sanitize means to remove harmful microorganisms or contaminants from the water with destruction on a molecular or cellular level. Sanitation is one necessity of three for clear water; the other two being filtration and circulation. There several types of alternative sanitizer systems available; but salt is by far the best.

How does it work?

A small amount of natural salt is dissolved into the pool water. The sanitizer's electrolytic cell is plumbed directly in-line with the equipment, typically after the heater. The power control unit is wired to the pool timer so it sanitizes the water when the pump is running water flows through the electrolytic cell, electrolysis separates the salt water into it's basic components, sodium and chloride; 100% free available chlorine is produced by this process and goes to work in the cell chamber to oxidize bacteria and sanitize the pool water. Following this process the chloride and sodium re-bond and become natural salt again. The only salt you will need to add to your pool will be to replace the salt lost in splash out, filter back flushing and dilution through rain.

Will The Salt Corrode The Pump & Heater?

No actually, Salt water only begins to become corrosive at dilutions in excess of 6,000 parts per million (PPM). While some Chlorine Generators require high salt levels to operate effectively the Autopilot system only requires 3,000 PPM.

Actually, chemically treated pool water is more corrosive than a saltwater pool.

Will I ever need to add standard pool chlorine again?

No, the system will produce more than enough sanitizer to keep your pool crystal clear year around and depending on what system you purchase. Some systems have a patented temperature compensation feature that actually adjusts chlorine production according to the demands of the water temperature and operates in water temperatures up to104 Degrees Fahrenheit.

How much sanitizer is produced?

Depending on the system being used, the power control unit can be adjusted to produce the level of sanitizer needed or desired.

Will It Affect My pH in the Pool?

A Saltwater system does not tend to alter the pH - like pool chlorine does. When you add pool chlorine to the water, it will raise or lower the pH depending on its own pH. Saltwater Systems are practically pH neutral and therefore have little effect on the pH.

Some Say These "Salt Systems Don't Work!"

There are a number of different salt systems on the market and as with any product, some are good (Mercedes?) and some are not so good (Yugo). All systems meet Health code Requirements, they are U.L. (Underwriters Laboratory) LISTED, N.S.F. (National Sanitation Foundation) APPROVED.

What should I do with my pool if a hurricane is predicted?

Before the Storm
Except in special cases, there is no need to lower the water. Many people say “Won’t the pool overflow if you don’t lower the water level?” Certainly it will. But no more than if a patio or plots of grass were there. Never completely drain the pool. If you do lower the water level, be sure to close the skimmer valve to prevent damage to the pump and piping.

Turn off all electrical power to the swimming pool. Including power to the pump motor, lighting, chlorinators, etc. before the storm hits.

Remove and store any removable child safety fences. Install the fence deck caps.

DO NOT place loose objects such as chairs, tables, pool equipment and toys inside the pool.

Some damage to the frame of your enclosed screen structure may be avoided if you provide a "vent" for wind to escape through.

Acqua Nita Services, Inc. will be super chlorinating the pool water, if the hurricane warnings allow.

After the Storm
Acqua Nita Services, Inc. will be assessing your swimming pool for damage and super chlorinating as soon as hurricane warnings are lifted.

DO NOT EMPTY THE POOL! High ground water can cause structural damage to an empty pool. There is a very good chance that your pool will lift right out of the ground if you drain it after heavy rains or floods or when the water table is high.

Remove all debris from pool with a rake and a skimmer before restarting the system to prevent clogged lines. Some chemical feeders require special care before starting the pump motor. Check with Acqua Nita Services, Inc..

Check to make sure the pool is operating normally and that the water is circulating in the pool. Reset time clocks to show the correct time of day. Run the filter until the water is crystal clear and resume normal pool operation.

Is my pool leaking?

Your pool will naturally lose some water due to evaporation from the sun, evaporation from wind, the use of a pool heater, and splash out. You may also gain water from rainfall. Rule of thumb is that if you’re routinely adding water to your pool, you may have a leak. Another rule of thumb is that if you lose less than a 1/4 inch a day it is probably evaporation and if you lose more than a 1/4 inch a day it is probably a leak.

Unsure of your evaporation rate?

Do the Bucket test:

1. Bring water to normal operating level, usually the middle of the skimmer or tiles.
2. Place bucket filled with pool water on the top pool step.
3. Mark the water level n both the inside and outside of the bucket The starting point levels should the same.
4. Check the mark 24 hours later. If there is a greater drop in the line on the outside of the bucket, a leak in the pool is indicated.

Now its time to call Acqua Nita Services, Inc. for a leak detection and repair!