What is stabilizer?

This is a chemical that prevents the ultra-violet rays of the sun from prematurely dissipating the chlorine level. Stabilizer reduces sanitizer consumption up to 50% and should be added to the pool if needed. It is important to test your stabilizer level because it stays in your water indefinitely. If stabilizer was added in the past, you generally just add it based on the results of your test. During winter months stabilizer levels should be maintained between 30-50 PPM, during the summer months it should be maintained between 60-80 PPM. Too much stabilizer can cause cloudy water.

Alternative Sanitizers:

An Alternative Sanitizer is generally regarded as anything used to sanitize the pool water in lieu of the more traditional methods of chlorine and bromine. To sanitize means to remove harmful microorganisms or contaminants from the water with destruction on a molecular or cellular level. Sanitation is one necessity of three for clear water; the other two being filtration and circulation. There several types of alternative sanitizer systems available; but salt is by far the best.

How does it work?

A small amount of natural salt is dissolved into the pool water. The sanitizer's electrolytic cell is plumbed directly in-line with the equipment, typically after the heater. The power control unit is wired to the pool timer so it sanitizes the water when the pump is running water flows through the electrolytic cell, electrolysis separates the salt water into it's basic components, sodium and chloride; 100% free available chlorine is produced by this process and goes to work in the cell chamber to oxidize bacteria and sanitize the pool water. Following this process the chloride and sodium re-bond and become natural salt again. The only salt you will need to add to your pool will be to replace the salt lost in splash out, filter back flushing and dilution through rain.

Will The Salt Corrode The Pump & Heater?

No actually, Salt water only begins to become corrosive at dilutions in excess of 6,000 parts per million (PPM). While some Chlorine Generators require high salt levels to operate effectively the Autopilot system only requires 3,000 PPM.

Actually, chemically treated pool water is more corrosive than a saltwater pool.

Will I ever need to add standard pool chlorine again?

No, the system will produce more than enough sanitizer to keep your pool crystal clear year around and depending on what system you purchase. Some systems have a patented temperature compensation feature that actually adjusts chlorine production according to the demands of the water temperature and operates in water temperatures up to104 Degrees Fahrenheit.

How much sanitizer is produced?

Depending on the system being used, the power control unit can be adjusted to produce the level of sanitizer needed or desired.

Will It Affect My pH in the Pool?

A Saltwater system does not tend to alter the pH - like pool chlorine does. When you add pool chlorine to the water, it will raise or lower the pH depending on its own pH. Saltwater Systems are practically pH neutral and therefore have little effect on the pH.

Some Say These "Salt Systems Don't Work!"

There are a number of different salt systems on the market and as with any product, some are good (Mercedes?) and some are not so good (Yugo). All systems meet Health code Requirements, they are U.L. (Underwriters Laboratory) LISTED, N.S.F. (National Sanitation Foundation) APPROVED.

What should I do with my pool if a hurricane is predicted?

Before the Storm
Except in special cases, there is no need to lower the water. Many people say “Won’t the pool overflow if you don’t lower the water level?” Certainly it will. But no more than if a patio or plots of grass were there. Never completely drain the pool. If you do lower the water level, be sure to close the skimmer valve to prevent damage to the pump and piping.

Turn off all electrical power to the swimming pool. Including power to the pump motor, lighting, chlorinators, etc. before the storm hits.

Remove and store any removable child safety fences. Install the fence deck caps.

DO NOT place loose objects such as chairs, tables, pool equipment and toys inside the pool.

Some damage to the frame of your enclosed screen structure may be avoided if you provide a "vent" for wind to escape through.

Acqua Nita Services, Inc. will be super chlorinating the pool water, if the hurricane warnings allow.

After the Storm
Acqua Nita Services, Inc. will be assessing your swimming pool for damage and super chlorinating as soon as hurricane warnings are lifted.

DO NOT EMPTY THE POOL! High ground water can cause structural damage to an empty pool. There is a very good chance that your pool will lift right out of the ground if you drain it after heavy rains or floods or when the water table is high.

Remove all debris from pool with a rake and a skimmer before restarting the system to prevent clogged lines. Some chemical feeders require special care before starting the pump motor. Check with Acqua Nita Services, Inc..

Check to make sure the pool is operating normally and that the water is circulating in the pool. Reset time clocks to show the correct time of day. Run the filter until the water is crystal clear and resume normal pool operation.

Is my pool leaking?

Your pool will naturally lose some water due to evaporation from the sun, evaporation from wind, the use of a pool heater, and splash out. You may also gain water from rainfall. Rule of thumb is that if you’re routinely adding water to your pool, you may have a leak. Another rule of thumb is that if you lose less than a 1/4 inch a day it is probably evaporation and if you lose more than a 1/4 inch a day it is probably a leak.

1. Bring water to normal operating level, usually the middle of the skimmer or tiles.
2. Place bucket filled with pool water on the top pool step.
3. Mark the water level n both the inside and outside of the bucket The starting point levels should the same.
4. Check the mark 24 hours later. If there is a greater drop in the line on the outside of the bucket, a leak in the pool is indicated.

Now its time to call Acqua Nita Services, Inc. for a leak detection and repair!

New Energy Law Explained:

A statewide law has gone  in effect on March 15th that will ban the sale and professional installation of old-school single-speed pumps for any owner using models of one horsepower or greater, which are most typically used by pool owners. In their place, pool stores and product vendors will sell what are called two-speed or variable speed  pool pumps, which use much less energy.
It will be OK to use an old pump until it dies out. You will have to upgrade to an energy-efficient one when replacing the old one unless it is still under the original manufacturer's warranty.
The new law will apply to both residential pools and in-ground spas using pumps or motors of one horsepower or greater, but not portable spas.

The downside: A one-horsepower pump and motor can cost about $150 or more, not including installation, while the price for newer models can start at about $700. The upside: The old pumps can cost $2 or more per day to run for the recommended eight hours a day - depending on the size of your pool, how long you run the pump and how well it works - while the newer pumps can be as low as 40 to 50 cents a day, say experts.

Because the age and condition of your pool and its pump and water circulation system can vary, it may be a good idea to have a professional visit your home to check on how efficiently it is running..
To get an idea of how much your old-style pool pump is costing you on a monthly basis, check out the Florida Power & Light website at http://www.fpl.com, place your cursor on the tab "My Home" and click on "Appliance Guide" and then "Pools & Spas." You can select the horsepower of your pump and the number of hours you run it per day (running the pump keeps water circulating and clean).

At my home we use a one-horsepower pump and run it for eight hours a day, which the site shows is costing us about $41 a month — or $492 a year. That amount could drop to a little more than $100 a year with a more efficient pump.

Major well-known manufacturers include Pentair, Hayward and Zodiac. The state requires that a licensed pool company replace any pool equipment. To find a member from Broward, Palm Beach, Miami-Dade and Orange counties of the Independent Pool and SPA Service Association — all of whom are properly licensed and insured — go to the organization’s website at http://www.ipssa.com/members/member-search, to find a licensed contractor, experts recommend.

Any pool company that does work beyond regular water treatment — including refinishing, repaving and pump replacement — is required to have a state license. You can check whether a company has a valid license and a consumer complaint history by visiting http://www.myfloridalicense.com and typing in the name of an owner, company or license number. You may also call 850-487-1395.

Check every service contract carefully to make sure you know what services are included or not, and ask for everything to be put in writing.

Drain Cover Safety:

Congress in 2007 passed the Virginia Graeme Baker Pool and Spa Safety Act,
named after former Secretary of State James Baker's granddaughter, who
became trapped in a hot-tub drain and drowned in 2002. The law set new
standards for drain covers for pools and spas, or hot tubs. The standards
are optional for existing residential pools. However, all new equipment must
meet the standards, so people repairing their pools or building new ones must
install the new drain covers.

The following drain covers are VGB 2008 complaint covers against entrapment:

If you do not have the above covers installed in your swimming pool; please call Acqua Nita and schedule a representative to verify that your cover prevents entrapment.

Is Your Community Pool/SPA Compliant?

The New Law for Florida Community Pool/SPA; 64E-9.007(10)

(e) The main drain outlet shall be connected to a collector tank. The capacity of the collector tank shall be at least one minute of the recirculated flow unless justified by the design engineer. Vacuum filter tanks are considered collector tanks.
(f) All pools built without a main drain collector tank must be retrofitted with a properly sized and piped collector tank as described in the collector tank definition, the first paragraph of 64E-9.005, 64E-9.007(8), and 64E-9.007(10) on or before the following dates to eliminate direct suction through the main drain.
1. For all pools, including wading pools, except spa type pools, with a main drain grate water depth of 4 feet or less, construction shall be completed on or before one year from the effective date of this rule;
for all spa type pools built before 1977, retrofit by July 1, 2010,
for all spa type pools built between 1977 and 1986, retrofit by July 1, 2011,
for all spa type pools built between 1986 and 1995, retrofit by July 1, 2012
and for all other pools, retrofit by July 1, 2013.
2. All existing public pools with direct suction main drains shall install as soon as possible, but in no case later than 180 days after the effective date of this rule, a main drain cover/grate that meets both the ASME/ANSI A112.19.8-2007 standard for drain covers/grates and the main drain cover/grate 1.5 feet per second water velocity requirement of this rule.
3. A modification permit shall be obtained prior to installation of the collector tank.
4. Pools that cannot be retrofitted by these dates shall be closed on or before these dates.
(g) Main drain covers/grates installed after the effective date of this rule shall comply with the requirements of ASME/ANSI A112.19.8-2007 and the water velocity requirement of this rule.
(11) An automatic and manual water makeup control must be provided to maintain the water level at the lip of the overflow gutter or at the mouth of the recessed automatic surface skimmers and must discharge through an air gap into a fill pipe or collector tank. Over the rim fill spouts are prohibited.

What steps do you need to take to be compliant?

ENGINEERED PLANS ARE REQUIRED BY FLORIDA DEPARTMENT OF HEALTH FOR MODIFICATION OF PUBLIC POOLS TO ADD A COLLECTOR TANK.

Florida Department of Health (DOH) is mandated to regulate the operation of all commercial pools in the State of Florida. They are empowered by authority of Chapter 514 of the Florida Statutes to administer statute 64E-9, of the Swimming Pool Code.  With our thorough knowledge of the 64E-9 codes and our many years of experience, we can help you avoid closings, reduce liability, and ensure a safe swimming environment. All direct suction commercial (public) pools must be converted (modified) to gravity flow to a collector tank by dates specified.

STATE OF FLORIDA TIME TABLE

MAY 24, 2010: ALL COMMERCIAL POOLS, INCLUDING WADING POOLS, WITH A MAIN DRAIN LOCATED IN FOUR FEET OF WATER OR LESS.
JULY 1, 2010: ALL COMMERCIAL  SPA TYPE POOLS BUILT BEFORE 1977.
JULY 1, 2011: ALL COMMERCIAL SPA TYPE POOLS BUILT BETWEEN 1977 – 1986.             
JULY 1, 2012: ALL COMMERCIAL SPA TYPE POOLS BUILT BETWEEN 1986 – 1995.
MAY 24, 2013: ALL OTHER PUBLIC POOLS, WITH  A MAIN DRAIN IN WATER GREATER THAN FOUR FEET. 

Pools that cannot be retrofitted by these dates shall be closed on or before these dates.

Who is allowed to install a Collector Tank?

WARNING! IS YOUR CONTRACTOR QUALIFIED TO DO THE WORK?  As of May 2009, the Florida Construction Industry Licensing Board issued a declaratory statement clarifying what type of contractor can legally perform the conversion of direct suction public/commercial pools to gravity-fed collection tank system pools in accordance with the amended Florida Public Swimming Pool Code requirements in Rule 64E-9.007(10), Florida Administrative Code.  Essentially, the contractor must be a commercial pool builder to perform this work.